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September 2005


Hair care with herbs


Ancient Wisdom, Modern Science

Hair consists of a protein called keratin and each hair has a follicle, which determines the nature of the strand. It is imperative that we ensure that each follicle is nourished adequately in order to have healthy hair.

If you want to keep your hair healthy, you have to avoid the enemies of healthy hair – too much sun, vitamin deficiencies, illness or other stresses, certain drugs like sulfa drugs and birth control pills, and cosmetic assaults like perming or dyeing. There is also the issue of environmental contamination, as from chlorine.

hair loss

Hair loss is a common disorder that affects men and women of all ages; and about 50% of men and women suffer from hair loss by the age of 40. Androgenetic alopecia and diffuse hair loss (telogen effluvium) are the common causes, while alopecia areata (patchy balding) affects 1.7% of the population.

Many factors cause hair loss. These include malnutrition and crash dieting, pregnancy and childbirth, UV radiation exposure, drugs, endocrine disorders, extreme physical and emotional stress, and severe systemic illness. 

In studies involving mice, stress has been shown to inhibit hair growth by inducing premature hair growth cycles and by initiating a cascade of inflammatory processes, which are strong inhibitors of hair follicle growth.

Another common disorder that plagues the scalp is dandruff. The yeast Pityrosporum ovale is the causative microorganism (fungus) of dandruff, which releases certain fatty acids which in turn trigger inflammatory processes, causing scalp inflammation and tissue damage.

Poor diet, poor hygiene, genetic disposition, hormonal imbalances and infections contribute to dandruff. Excessive use of hairsprays and hair gels, improper use of hair-colouring products, excessive use of electric hair curlers, dry indoor heating, tight fitting headgears or scarves, infrequent shampooing of the hair, inadequate rinsing of hair, stress, anxiety and tension worsen dandruff. 

Herbs with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antistress activity are promising natural hair care agents. Some of the herbs such as Shikakai are also excellent natural cleansers and others such as chickpea (Cicer arietinum) are nourishing agents.

Some hair care herbs include: 

Shikakai 

Shikakai or soap nut tree (Acacia sinuata), also known as Saptala in Sanskrit, is a small spindly plant that grows in the arid regions of India and Myanmar.

Its claim to fame is its large pod, which has been collected, ground into powder, mixed with water and used for centuries as a gentle cleanser for “lustrous long hair”.

In fact, “shikakai” literally translates as “fruit for the hair”. Its gentle, low pH lather cleans thoroughly without drying the hair or scalp. It leaves hair smooth, shiny and full of body. It is a true and natural alternative to soap and detergent based shampoos. 

Soap nut 

Soap nut (Sapindus mukorossi) is a deciduous tree found wild in north India, which bears nuts that yield lather when soaked in water.

The fruits are valued for the saponins, those that produce lather. It cleanses the skin of oily secretion and is used to cleanse hair and as a hair tonic. Its cleansing action removes accumulated debris and sebaceous material. Soap nuts are used in all kinds of hair washes. 

Chickpea 

The chickpea is a rich source of carbohydrates, starch, amino acids and minerals. The seeds also contain antifungal and antibacterial compounds like daphnetin and genistein.

Traditionally the flour of chickpeas is used as a tonic for the hair to strengthen hair follicles and is also used in nourishing face and hair washes.

Bhringaraja 

The ayurvedic herb Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), known as the “king of hair,” promotes hair growth and helps relieve stress. Bhringaraj also calms down pitta dosha, the fiery element that can cause premature graying and hair loss.

Bhringaraja is also a natural conditioner for the hair. Bhringaraja is a common ingredient present in hair revitalisers. 

Bhringaraja (Eclipta alba), Palasa (Butea frondosa) and Tea tree (Melaleuca leucodendron) exhibit potent anti-inflammatory activities and have been found to be valuable in the treatment of hair disorders like alopecia and dandruff, where inflammatory processes have an important role to play in the progression of the disease.

In a study the extract of Bhringaraja has potent anti-inflammatory activity. Palasa has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity.

The extracts of the leaves were also found to exhibit excellent anti-stress activity.

Herbs for dandruff treatment

The essential oil in tea tree (Melaleuca leucadendron) has antioxidant, antimicrobial and antifungal properties.

Extract of the plant was found to exhibit potent anti-inflammatory activity and inhibited the synthesis of prostaglandins, which are powerful mediators of inflammation.

Its anti-inflammatory properties help reduce itching associated with dandruff and its antimicrobial properties helps reduce infection on scalp. 

Rosemary 

Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) is a commonly used herb in hair care. The leaves of

Rosemary yield a volatile oil and is said to prevent premature baldness, treats dandruff and other scalp infections.

Both Tea tree and Rosemary herbs are commonly seen as ingredients in dandruff shampoos on the shelves. 

In today’s world, chemicals which can be harsh on skin, hair and body are all around us. Using herbs for maintaining health of the hair can reduce the burden of chemicals on the body.